All-purpose icons: the new Breitling Chronomat collection

To understand this exciting new collection from Breitling, it’s important to know a little about the heritage of the first 1983/84 Chronomat. Especially as the latest iteration from the Swiss horology house leans on many of the original design features. Launched in 1983 as the chronograph Frecce Tricolori, the watch was specifically developed for the highly skilled, exceptionally brave jet-fighter pilots of the Italian aviation display team. Understandably, these air acrobats demanded a watch that was not only robust enough for high-G manoeuvres in a military cockpit but also stylish enough to impress on terra-firma.

A year later, following the success of the Tricolori and keeping many of the design elements, Breitling launched the 1984 Chronomat for the brand’s 100th anniversary. Both technical and stylish, the Chronomat became one of the most sought-after watches of the era. Its sports-chic elements – including a Rouleaux bracelet and “rider tabs” that made the bezel so identifiable – remain central to the 2020 Chronomat range. We’ve summarised below the full suite of all-new Chronomats introduced by Georges Kern. Now, you’ve got the enviable task of choosing which one of these future classics will be adorning your wrist in 2020.

As described, the Frecce Tricolori chronograph was where the Chronomat story began, in 1983, so the 2020 Chronomat B01 42mm Frecce Tricolori £6,780, in its stainless-steel case and blue dial, seems a natural place to start. Limited to 250 pieces, the new Frecce Tricolori takes many design cues from its predecessor, albeit in a cleaner, subtler presentation that gives the dial a spacious and legible finish, also featuring the Italian aerial squadron logo. A sapphire-crystal case back celebrates the beautiful Breitling 01 Movement.

Fitted with a tachymeter for measuring speed and distance, the Chronomat B01 Bentley £6,650 in a stainless-steel case with a refined British racing-green dial, evokes the spirit of vintage motor racing while celebrating the brand’s long-lasting partnership with the British luxury car manufacturer. Both elegant and useful, the Bentley, like all Chronomats, is fitted with a Rouleaux bracelet, displaying another visual link to its Eighties lineage. A perfect choice for those who enjoy a sports watch in a motoring context.

Available in a range of dial colours, including silver, blue, copper and black, the Chronomat B01 42mm in steel, £6,650 - will appeal to a number of styles and tastes. Boasting all the iconic elements of the first Chronomats – including the large, distinctive, screw-locked, two-gaskets crown and symmetrical bezel and dial details – the 42mm steel models remain a purposeful and confident choice on land, sea or air.

For those looking for an additional eye-catching element to the subtle bezel and dial of the B01 42mm in steel, the steel Chronomat with 18-carat red-gold details, £7,590 - may be for you. This model has all the elements of the other B01 42 steel watches, with the added features of 18-carat red gold across the bezel riders, chronograph pushers, screw-lock crown, dial hands and hour markers. These details elevate the watch and boost its presence within more luxurious settings.

The Chronomat B01 42 steel and 18kt gold, £9,750 - is available with either a black or blue dial. The two-tone design aesthetic brings the Rouleaux bracelet to life, with golden accents throughout the notoriously luxurious and comfortable strap. The 18-carat red gold adorning the bezel, riders, screw-lock crown, chronograph pushers and dial details adds a touch of glamour without compromising its sporting origins.

Rounding off the new Chronomat collection is the incredible model: the Chronomat B01 42 18-carat gold anthracite with Diver Pro II deployment case, £15,950. The pinnacle of the Chronomat, this sporting watch harks back to the brand’s original intentions for the all-purpose watch, with its injection of high-end luxury via the use of precious metals and cutting-edge technology.