PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA COLLECTION

Patek Philippe is known for creating complications that are not only incredible feats of watchmaking, but also take your breath away with the grandeur of their design.

When it comes to impeccable craftsmanship, pioneering designs and rich history of Genevan watchmaking inventions, there is none more qualified than that of Patek Philippe. The company began its legacy in the nineteenth century, founded by Antoine Norbert de Patek and Adrien Philippe and has a tradition of innovation that has been crowned by over one hundred patents. The brand is renowned for its hand-finished watches and skilled craftsman that ensure each and every timepiece is of the highest of standards.

With such a rich history comes a vast collection of timepieces, and we’re exploring the collections of Patek Philippe in-depth on Calibre, starting with the Calatrava collection.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE CALATRAVA

There was a period of change for the company in the 1930s. The world, and subsequently the company, struggled through the financial difficulties presented in the Great Depression and, in 1932, change was afoot when Genevan brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek, Philippe & Cie (as the company was formerly known). In that very same year, as the dust began to settle, the Calatrava: Ref. 96 launched. It was a timepiece so revered that its legacy is still part of the Patek Philippe collection today.

The inaugural Calatrava was produced for over 40 years – a true sign of its greatness – and many important renditions followed. There is room in a book to detail these in the attention they deserve, but we couldn’t continue without mentioning the Calatrava Ref. 3919.

CALATRAVA REF. 3919

The legendary Ref. 3919 first came to market in 1985 and debuted in three shades of gold: 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, and 18k white gold. It was the iconic “Clous de Paris” bezel – not new to Patek Philippe in 1985, but most certainly associated with the Ref. 3919 thereafter – which truly made this timepiece special and cemented the essence of Patek Philippe style. The intricate guilloche work brings depth to the bezel’s otherwise plain surface to create something very simple, but utterly timeless.

The Ref. 3919 housed a manual-wound Calibre 215 PS, subsidiary seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock, white dial with black lacquered Roman numerals and straight lugs. It operates at around 28,800 beats per hour, with the Calibre 215 PS supplying around 44 hours of power reserve. The model was produced for over 20 years, became a must-have timepiece from the brand within the 80s and 90s, and – despite the fact it is now discontinued - still remains at the top of watch collectors’ wish lists across the globe.

Indeed, the Ref. 3919 was a staple of Thierry Stern’s - the Patek Philippe President – watch collection, and he speaks of the timepiece as “iconic watch” of his generation.

Elsewhere in the collection, the Ladies Calatrava Ref. 7200/200R-001 is a simple, understated timepiece set within an 18ct rose gold case that is beautifully embellished with 142 individual diamonds. The face features gold Breguet numerals and slender hands, while the case is mounted on an eye-catching, royal purple alligator leather strap with a secure buckle for ultimate comfort.

This Calatrava sits at a smaller 34.5mm and carries the quintessential characteristics of the loved collection, with a spectacular aesthetic design.

The Calatrava has been hailed as the most graceful and best-organised manifestations of the round watch and is widely adjudged to be the blueprint for the ultimate dress watch. It still ranks among the most striking and truly classic examples of the Patek Philippe style and has charmed generations of watch collectors since its entrance in the 1930s.

View the Calatrava collection today here at Mappin & Webb.